This ten-day medical charity trip to Senegal was an unforgettable experience. Organized by Africa Cries Out, a charity based in Connecticut, the mission was to provide free, high-quality medical care to the indigenous populations living in remote rural areas plagued by extreme poverty. This trip was planned three years ago but was interrupted by the COVID-19 outbreak. With permission from the Senegal Public Health authorities, we were finally able to realize our plans two weeks ago.
Our medical team comprised four licensed American physicians from various specialties, five younger volunteers, and staff from an American church that hosted us at its base in Dakar. The church assisted with accommodation, transportation, translation services, and connections to local communities. During the ten-day trip, our team served over 300 patients daily at local clinics, churches, leprosy villages, and schools in rural areas. According to local tribal and church leaders, this was the only medical service they had received in three years.
Beyond my dedication to providing medical services, I learned a great deal about the rich history of Senegal and enjoyed its unique beauty and culture. Senegal is a country in West Africa with a population of approximately 17 million and was a notorious center for the African slave trade in the 17th century. With a GNI of $1,430 in 2020, it is classified as a lower-middle-income country. The standard of living in the capital, Dakar, and along the coast is relatively high, but many rural areas, especially those bordering countries like Mali, Gambia, and Guinea-Bissau, face extreme poverty. Witnessing tribal people living in remote mountain areas near the Mali border struggle for basic living conditions—food, water, and transportation—while others in Dakar (not to mention those in the U.S.) enjoyed surfing, wine, and nightlife made the socioeconomic disparities and differences in medical resources starkly apparent.
During my time in Senegal, I experienced a mix of emotions. When little children looked at me with their innocent eyes, I worried whether their futures would mirror those of their parents or grandparents. Yet, when I saw smiling babies on their mothers’ backs, brightly colored and clean clothes even amid extreme poverty, children dancing joyfully in the dust, and eager young people excited to learn, I was inexplicably moved. I began to understand that my worries were largely unnecessary. Observing the tall, green trees standing resiliently in the scorching conditions of the beige desert—growing and flourishing despite a lack of water and nutrients—provided me with clarity. These trees symbolize Senegal and its people. Their courage, belief, and optimism will sustain them; their lives, culture, and traditions will endure with or without external help.
I hope my photos and reflections offer you a glimpse into my experiences and thoughts in Senegal.
Finally, I would like to express my deep gratitude to Dr. Xu Jun, the president of Africa Cries Out, for his selfless leadership that enabled us to successfully complete our mission, and to our friends from the church in Dakar for their tireless support throughout the entire trip.
这次为期十天的塞内加尔医疗慈善之旅是一次难忘的经历。活动是由慈善组织 Africa Cries Out (ACO) 组织的, 其主要目的是为生活在塞内加尔偏远农村地区和处于极端贫困状态的土著居民提供免费和高质量的医疗服务。 我们早在三年前就计划了这次旅行,但因 Covid-19 爆发而中断。经塞内加尔公共卫生部门的许可,我们终于在两周前实现了这个计划。
我们的医疗团队这次由 4 名不同专业的美国执业医师、5 名年轻的志愿者,以及在塞内加尔基地接待我们团队的美国教会的工作人员和领导组成。 教会帮助我们提供住宿、交通、翻译服务以及与当地人或部落的联系。 在为期十天的行程中,我们的四位医生团队在当地诊所、教堂、麻风病村和位于农村地区的学校每天为超过300 多名患者提供服务,并开出数千例药物。 据当地部落或教会领袖说,这是他们三年来享受的唯一医疗服务。
除了致力医疗服务,我还了解了不少塞内加尔丰富的历史,领略了塞内加尔独特的美景和文化。塞内加尔是西非的一个国家,拥有约1700万人口,曾是17世纪臭名昭著的非洲主要奴隶贸易中心。2020 年它的平均国民总收入1,430 美元, 为一个中低收入国家。首都达喀尔和海岸附近的生活水平相对较高,但有许多极端贫困的农村地区,特别是与马里、甘比、几内亚比绍等国家接壤的部落/村庄。如果不是我目睹了生活在靠近马里边境偏远山区的部落人民在为基本生活条件、食物、水和交通苦苦挣扎,而达喀尔(更不用说在美国)的其他人则在享受冲浪、葡萄酒和夜总会等, 我无法相信西方国家、首都达喀尔和我们访问的那些穷困地区之间存在如此巨大的社会经济地位和医疗资源的差异。
在塞内加尔的时候, 很多次当小婴儿或小孩子用天真无邪的眼睛看着我的时候,我的心情很复杂。 我担心他们未来的生活是否与他们的父母或祖父母完全一样。 然而,当我看到妈妈身后那些笑容满面的婴儿,即使在极度贫困时仍保持色彩鲜艳的干净衣服,在尘土中快乐地跳舞的孩子,渴望学习和自信的年轻人,以及热心的当地志愿者,我有种莫名的感动, 同时也明白我的担心是多余的。 当我看到许多高大而绿意盎然的大树在灼热的条件下,在没有充足水分和养分的米色沙漠中仍然稳稳矗立,不断生长、茂盛勃发、蔓延时,我立时有了一个明确的答案。 这些树就象塞内加尔及其人民。 他们的勇气、信念、对生活的乐观将滋养他们,无论有没有外界的帮助,他们的生活, 文化和传统都会连绵不断地继续下去, 永远不会消亡。
我希望我的一些照片或文字能让你感受到我在塞内加尔经历过的事和思緒。
最后也借此机会感谢Africa Cries Out 会长徐俊医生无私的付出,带领大家圆满完成计划,以及教会的朋友的热情帮助。
Day 1 Arrival at the base in Dakar 第 1 天 抵达达喀尔基地
We flew directly to Dakar, the capital of Senegal, with Air Senegal. Since our team members came from various states and cities, we gathered at JFK before boarding and set off together. Although we had been communicating for a long time through social media, most of us were meeting face-to-face for the first time. A group of strangers was about to spend the next ten days or more together in a non-English-speaking country—an adventure in every sense. This anticipation made everyone excited about the challenges ahead.
After an eight-hour flight, we arrived at Dakar International Airport around 8:00 AM local time. Everything went smoothly. The customs officers were well-trained and efficient, allowing us to bring in $800,000 worth of medicine. We also purchased SIM cards at the airport to prepare for our long journey without internet and cell phone service.
As I walked out of the airport, I immediately felt the heat blowing into my face. The air was very dry, and the sky had a light brown, dusty hue (later, I learned that fine sand from the nearby desert was to blame). We were greeted at the exit gate by local church leaders and other team members who had arrived earlier. A rented bus took us to our base.
The base is about 40 minutes from the airport. Looking through the car window, everything seemed light brown—the sky, the road, the walls, and perhaps even the air. The road was better than I expected, although there were no traffic lights along the way.
We arrived at the base around noon, where the students and staff greeted us with a warm African welcome ceremony. Accompanied by the rhythmic beats of African drums, they sang a lively, energetic song (see video). Many of us couldn’t help but join in the dancing.
The base was well-maintained and had all the necessary facilities for over a hundred residents. I will introduce the facilities in detail later, but in short, it had its own deep well with a pumping water filtration system for daily use. There were dormitories for teachers and students, a dining room and kitchen, a basketball court and football field, and, surprisingly, a sizable vegetable garden.
I was assigned to share a room with three other doctors. This was my first experience in 30 years in the U.S. sharing a room with non-family members. The room was spacious and included clean, functional toilets and a shower we could enjoy after work. I felt the hospitality of the staff as I laid down on the bed (see photo below). Given the circumstances, we were very satisfied with the arrangement.
我们乘坐塞内加尔航空公司直飞塞内加尔首都达喀尔。 团队成员来自不同的州和城市,所以登机前我们在肯尼迪机场集合, 一起出发。 尽管我们已经通过社交媒体进行了很长时间的交谈, 但大多数是第一次面对面见面。 一群陌生人,在一个非英语国里一起度过接下来的十天或更长时间,这真像是一种冒险。不过,这种对未来的挑战反让每个人感到兴奋。
经过 8 小时的飞行,我们于当地时间上午 8:00 左右抵达达喀尔国际机场。一切都很顺利,海关官员训练有数,很有效率。他们放行了近80万美元的药物。我们在机场购买了sim卡,准备好没有互联网和手机服务的漫长旅程。
出了机场的门,我立刻感到一股热气扑面而来。 天气非常干燥,天空有点浅褐色和尘土飞扬(后来我才知道附近沙漠的细沙是罪魁祸首)。 当地教会领袖和其他早来的团队成员在出口迎接了我们, 然后一辆租来的巴士把我们带到了基地。
该基地距机场 40 分钟路程。 当我透过车窗观看时,似乎一切都是浅褐色的:天空、道路、墙壁,也许还有空气。 道路比我想象的要好,但一路上没有红绿灯。
到达基地的时候差不多中午了。 基地的学生和工作人员为我们举行了热情洋溢的非洲式欢迎仪式。 非洲鼓伴着一首快乐、充满活力、可爱的歌曲(见视频)。我们许多人也情不自禁地一起跳起舞来。
该基地维护得非常好,拥有可供一百多人居住的所有必要设施。 我后面会详细介绍基地内的设施,简单来说,就是自有深井抽水净水系统以满足日常使用,有师生宿舍,餐厅/厨房,篮球场/足球场 ,奇迹般地,还有一个相当大的菜园。
我被安排与三位医生共用一个房间。 哇,这是我来美国三十年来第一次这样与外人共享房间。房间足够宽敞,有干净实用的厕所,和淋浴间,我们可以在下班后享受。 工作人员的热情好客我们一躺下就能感受到(见下图)。 在这种环境下,我们有对这样的安排非常满意了。
Student welcome ceremony at the base
基地学生欢迎仪式
Our first lunch consisted of simple Western food, which turned out to be quite tasty. Afterward, we decided to explore a nearby seaside town, Saly. Also known as Sali or Saly Portudal, Saly is a charming resort area located in the Thies Region on Senegal’s Petite Côte, just south of Dakar. It is one of the top tourist destinations in West Africa and holds the status of a commune.
As our bus navigated through the bustling town center, we made our way to the beach entrance. Along the road, palm trees reached skyward, while exotic French and Portuguese-style houses were adorned with vibrant bougainvillea. Even at the beach, however, the sky appeared yellowish and dusty, with the sun struggling to shine through. The sand was coarser and darker than typical beach sand, leaning towards orange rather than yellow.
We arrived at a beachfront bar at the Lamantin Beach Resort, where we settled in to enjoy the sunshine, fresh air, and drinks—Martinis, beer, tropical fruits, and juice made from local produce. Our conversation turned to a variety of topics, including gun rights, taxes, investments, racial discrimination, and other aspects of American politics. Ultimately, everyone agreed to set aside political discussions and simply enjoy the moment. We lingered there until sunset, which was, of course, beautiful.
第一顿午餐是简单的西餐,味道不错。 中饭后我们决定游览附近的海滨小镇 Saly。 Saly 也称为 Sali 或 Saly Portuda, 是达喀尔以南塞内加尔小科特省泰斯地区的一个海滨度假区, 是整个西非的顶级旅游目的地,具有公共社区的地位。我们的巴士穿过蓬乱的市中心,然后进入通往海滩的大门。通往海滩的路边,棕榈树耸立在天空中,充满异国情调的法国或葡萄牙风格的房屋被盛开的九重葛优雅而热情地覆盖。 然而,即使是在海边,天空也是灰蒙蒙的,沙尘飞扬,就连太阳也不得不使劲才能照耀到海滩。 海滩上的沙子不是很细,颜色比黄色要深, 近于橘色。我们来到一个度假村(Lamantin Beach Resort)海滩前的酒吧,坐在那里,享受着阳光、新鲜的空气、马提尼酒、啤酒、热带水果和当地特产的果汁,聊着枪支权利、税收、投资和种族歧视等美国政治 。最后大家都同意现在不去管那些政治了,好好享受生活吧。 我们一直待到日落。 当然,日落很美。
To view full sized photos, please right click and choose “open image in new tab”. 如要查看全尺寸照片,请右键单击并选择“在新桌面中打开图像”
On the way back, we stopped in downtown Saly to address the issues with our SIM cards and Wi-Fi devices. Although the problems were not resolved, I managed to capture some interesting photos, including one of a donkey cart sharing the street with motor vehicles. As the sun set, the town took on a serene atmosphere, with children playing safely and ladies strolling leisurely around.
Our tour of Saly lasted about five hours, and when we returned to the base, it was nearly 8:00 PM. After enjoying a delicious dinner prepared by the staff, our youth volunteers collaborated with the students at the base to package medicines for the clinic the following day.
在回来的路上,我们在萨利市中心停留,想修复 sim 卡和 Wi-Fi 设备问题。 问题没有解决,但我拍到了一些很有意思的照片,其中一张是驴车与机动车共享街道。 夕阳西下,小镇静谧祥和,孩子们和女士们安全地玩耍和走动。
游历Saly 花了我们 5 个小时。 当我们回到基地时,已经快晚上 8:00 了。 吃完工作人员准备的美味晚餐后,我们的青年志愿者与基地的学生一起,为明天的门诊包装药品。
Day 2 The first clinic at the base 第 2 天 首次基地门诊
Our younger volunteers prepared a delicious breakfast for us, and after we ate, we quickly got to work seeing patients at the base. The classrooms of the school had been transformed into temporary clinics and examination rooms. I was surprised to find over a hundred people already waiting when we arrived. Some villagers had come as early as 5:00 AM to ensure they didn’t miss the opportunity to see a doctor.
The most common conditions among the villagers included parasitic infestations, particularly hookworm and ascariasis in children, untreated hypertension and arthritis in the elderly, and back and pelvic pain in women, many of which were related to sexually transmitted diseases. The symptoms were often clear, making it relatively easy to prescribe the appropriate medications.
The most challenging aspect of the clinic was the language barrier. French is the official language of Senegal, but many people, particularly those who are less educated or live in poverty, speak little French and only local languages—there are at least five such languages in different regions. In this area, the primary language spoken by the villagers is Wolof. Ideally, we would have a translator fluent in both English and Wolof, but we couldn’t find anyone with that skill set.
Instead, we employed a simple solution: two translators assisted each doctor. I had a local volunteer who spoke English and French, translating my English into French, while another volunteer who spoke French and Wolof translated from French into Wolof for the villagers. I greatly appreciated both translators; they put in their best efforts to assist me and the patients. Occasionally, when they were unsure of my meaning, they used their cell phones to look up the answers. Initially, I had some concerns about the accuracy and validity of the three-language translation process, but when a patient said, “Jai-rruh-jef” (thank you) as they left the room happily, I knew that we had all done a great job.
The clinic was scheduled to close at 5:00 PM. However, no matter how quickly we worked, the number of villagers in the waiting area remained constant. As a result, we found ourselves working much longer than planned. Ultimately, we had to close the clinic because everyone was exhausted. Each doctor ended up seeing over a hundred patients that day. While we were tired, the experience was incredibly rewarding.
我们年轻的志愿者为大家准备了美味的早餐。享用完早餐后,我们马上在基地始看病。 基地学校的教室变成了临时诊所和检查室。没想到我们来时已经有一百多人在等待了。据说一些村民早在早上 5:00 就来到这里,为的是不错过这个看病的机会。
村民们最常见的疾病是儿童感染寄生虫(特别是钩虫病和蛔虫病),老年人未经治疗的高血压和关节炎,以及妇女的背部和骨盆疼痛(许多与性传播疾病有关)。 症状通常很明显,开出相关药物并不困难。
门诊最困难的部分是语言障碍。法语是塞内加尔的官方语言,但大多数人特别是受教育程度较低或生活贫困的人只会说当地语言(至少有五种这样的语言)。在这个地区,村民们所说的语言是Wolof。一个理想的翻译是既懂英语又懂 Wolof ,但我们找不到这样的人。简单的解决方案是让两名翻译帮助一个医生。我有一位能讲英语-法语的当地的志愿者将我的英语翻译成法语,另一位讲法语-Wolof语的志愿者将法语翻译成Wolof给村民。我真的很感谢两位翻译。她们恪尽职守,尽最大努力帮助我和病人。有时当她们不确定我的意思时,他们会用手机搜索答案。开始时,我有点担心三种语言翻译后的准确性和有效性,但当病人对我说“Jai-rruh-jef”(谢谢)并高兴地离开房间时,我知道我们所有人都做得很到位。
门诊原定于下午 5:00 关闭。 然而,无论我们的工作做的多快,候诊区的村民人数始终保持不变, 所以我们只有超时工作。 到最后,每个人实在是太累了, 我们不得不关闭诊所。 今天大约每位医生看的病人超过一百多名。筋疲力尽,但非常有成就感。
Day 3 Dakar and a Gorée island tour 第 3 天 浏览达喀尔和戈雷岛
The original plan for the day was to visit a church near Dakar and tour the city. Unfortunately, the bus broke down in the middle of the highway, and after waiting for hours, we learned that it couldn’t be fixed. As a result, we had to transfer to another bus, which caused us to cancel our church visit and head directly to Dakar.
By the time we arrived in Dakar around noon, everyone was hungry. We stopped for lunch at a stylish Portuguese/Brazilian restaurant situated in a nice area. There, we enjoyed a selection of typical dishes, including roasted beef, pork, and chicken.
After lunch, a few of us took a brief tour of downtown Dakar. Perhaps due to the sweltering midday heat, the streets were relatively quiet. As we strolled through the area, we came across a bustling market where we noticed a stunning array of artistic African wood carvings on display.
今天的最初计划是参观达喀尔附近的一座教堂并游览达喀尔。 不巧的是,租用的汽车在高速公路中间抛锚了。几小时后,我们在得知司机无法修好汽车后, 不得不换乘另一辆汽车。因为时间不够, 我们只好取消参观教堂,直接前往达喀尔。
我们到达达喀尔时已经是中午了。大家饥肠辘辘,赶紧来到一家葡萄牙/巴西餐用午餐。 餐厅位于一个不错的地区,很时尚。 我们享用了典型的葡萄牙/巴西美食,包括烤牛肉、猪肉和鸡肉。
午饭后,我们几个人短暂游览了达喀尔市中心。可能是因为中午酷热的原因, 街上来往的人并不很多。 我们路过一个贸易市场,看到展出的极具艺术性的非洲木雕。
By 3 o’clock, we made our way to the ferry terminal to catch the boat to Gorée Island, which was conveniently within walking distance. The terminal is situated in a bustling port filled with various ships. The marina is modern and lively. The ferry itself is double-decked, clean, and comfortable. During the voyage, the sea was calm, and the views were delightful. It took us about 30 minutes to reach Gorée Island.
到了3点钟,我们必须去渡轮码头搭乘渡轮前往Gorée岛。码头步行即可到达。渡船码头位于一个港口,有许多船只停泊在那里。 码头非常现代,显得很忙碌。 渡轮是双层甲板的,干净舒适。 航行过程中,海风平浪静,景色宜人。我们花了大约 30 分钟到达戈雷岛。
Gorée is a small island off the coast of Dakar, covering 88 acres (36 hectares) of volcanic rock. This tiny island was the site of one of the earliest European settlements in West Africa and served as a trading outpost for slaves and other goods from 1536 to 1848. Although the exact role of Gorée in the transatlantic slave trade is debated, many believe it was a significant entrepôt or one of several centers from which Africans were taken to the Americas.
Throughout its history, Gorée changed hands multiple times, but from 1817 until Senegal’s independence in 1960, it was under French control. Today, only a handful of residents live on the island, while the majority of its population consists of tourists from around the world. There are no cars on Gorée, but the island is home to many birds, dogs, and wild cats.
戈雷岛是达喀尔海岸外的一个小岛。 它实际上是一块火山岩,面积为 88 英亩(36 公顷)。 这个小岛是西非最早的欧洲定居点之一,从 1536 年到 1848 年,一直是奴隶和其他贸易的前哨。 许多人认为(尽管值得商榷),戈雷是奴隶贸易的主要转口港,或者是非洲人被带到美洲的众多中心之一。 戈雷几次易手,但从 1817 年到 1960 年直到塞内加尔独立,它一直处于法国的控制之下。 目前岛上只有少数人居住,岛上的大多数人都是来自世界各地的游客。 没有汽车,但有很多鸟、狗和野猫。
The ferry brought us to a dock near a small beach. Since no one in our group spoke French, we hired an English-speaking tour guide to help us navigate the island.
渡轮把我们带到了小海滩附近的一个码头。 因为没有人会说法语,所以我们聘请了会说英语的导游。
Off the dock was a sizable plaza with ticket office, and coffee and gift shops. The local police station was located at the end of plaza and painted red. The streets were narrow, and lining the sides were various style houses pained with different colors, mainly yellow and red. Bougainvillea can often be seen climbing the walls on both sides of the street, unique unknown African plants growing in every corners. These architectural styles and designs are reminiscent of the culture transplantation by early European settlers, including Portuguese, French, British and maybe Dutch. you could see only Christian church, or Saint Charles Borromée church, built in 1830, colonial houses, and Dutch door and fortress on the island. Residents were very friendly but did not like being photographed. luckily, I got permission from a mother to take photos for her little boy. Many local artists were selling their artistic work along the roads to the rock plateau Le Castel, but they never forced you to buy anything.
The tour guide led us to various interesting sites. Although I followed the tour guide most of the time, I sometimes sneaked into side streets, taking photos I liked.
码头外是一个相当大的广场,周边有售票处、咖啡店和礼品店。当地警察局位于广场尽头,漆成红色。岛上各种风格的房屋,颜色各异,主要是黄色和红色, 排立在狭窄街道的两边。 经常可以看到九重葛攀爬街道两边的墙壁,独特的不知名的非洲植物每个角落蔓延生长。这些建筑风格和设计让人想起早期欧洲定居者,包括葡萄牙、法国、英国,也许还有荷兰人的文化移植。您可以看到建于 1830 年的唯一基督教教堂或圣查尔斯博罗梅教堂、殖民时期的房屋以及岛上的荷兰门和堡垒。居民非常友好,但不喜欢被拍照。幸运的是,我得到了一位母亲的许可,为她的小男孩拍了一些照片。在通往岩石平台 Le Castel 的道路上 有许多当地艺人出售他们的艺术作品,但他们从不强迫购买任何东西。
导游带领我们到各个观光点。 我虽然大部分时间都是跟着导游走,但有时也会偷偷溜进小街,拍自己喜欢的照片。
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On the rocky plateau of Le Castel, remnants of a fort with cannons left by the French army during World War II stand as silent witnesses to history. Tourists frolicked around the rusty cannons, striking various poses and movements, perhaps unaware of the significance of these relics. The cannon barrels, pointed outward, silently conveyed the harsh realities of war. Above us, numerous birds soared gracefully through the sky, embodying a sense of peace. This juxtaposition of war and tranquility tells the story of this small island, a narrative that we hope resonates with all who visit. May peace be with us always.
在岩石高处平台 Le Castel,是一座炮台,有二战时法国军队留下的大炮。 游客们在锈迹斑斑的大炮上跳来跳去,做出各种各样的姿势和动作。 他们大概不知道这门大炮是干什么的,为什么会在这里。只是大炮的出口正对我们,默默地告诉我们战争的残酷。 天上,有许多鸟儿优雅地翱翔,显得那么详和。 是的,这就是这个小岛上的战争与和平的故事,希望世人能读懂它。 愿和平永远与我们同在。
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炮台上空翱翔的鸟
炮台上空翱翔的鸟
炮台上空翱翔的鸟
Next to the fort, there is a small workshop where local artists paint and make African sculptures using sands.
Around 12:00 PM, our tour guide suddenly invited us to spend some time with an artist and stepped away from the crowd. I noticed he walked to a quiet spot, laid out a clean mat on the ground, and knelt down to pray. Interestingly, just behind him was an advertisement—likely for perfume—featuring a beautiful young African woman. In that split second, I recognized it as a perfect example of magical realism: a devout, elderly man juxtaposed with a modern, youthful figure. I pressed the shutter without hesitation. The photograph captured the interplay of ancient beliefs and contemporary life, the ascension of spirit alongside the pursuit of sensual pleasure, and the contrast between old-fashioned values and modern styles—all reflecting the complexities of life in this
在大炮台旁边,有一个小作坊,当地的艺人在那里绘画和用沙子制作非洲雕塑。
大约是中午 12:00,我们的导游突然让我们和艺人待一会儿,自己离开了人群。 我注意到他走到一个安静的地方,在地上放了一块干净的垫子,然后跪下来祈祷。 有趣的是,他身后是一则可能是推销香水的广告,广告上是一位年轻漂亮的非洲女士。 我马上想到这是魔幻现实主义的完美写照:一位现实中虔诚的宗教老男人与一位年轻的现代女士背靠背在一起。我毫不犹豫地按下了快门。古老的信仰与现代生活,心灵的提升与对感官愉悦的追求,旧时尚与现代风格,都展现在这张照片中,这也正反映了在这个国家里正在发生的事。
The most memorable experience of the day was visiting the House of Slaves, a poignant museum dedicated to the history of the transatlantic slave trade.
当天最令人印象深刻的体验是参观奴隶之家或博物馆。
The House of Slaves was originally built and owned by an Afro-French woman, Anna Colas Pepin, who was a slave trader. Enslaved individuals were sent to this house while awaiting their transportation across the Atlantic Ocean to the Americas. Many of these individuals were war prisoners sold by their tribes or were abducted or lured by slave traders.
The slaves-to-be were confined in dark, airless cells on the bottom floor of the house, with many failing to reach this location due to diseases and starvation. Upon arrival, they were imprisoned, often shackled to the floor, with their backs against the walls, unable to move. Those who dared to disobey the rules faced punishment, often being sent to even smaller rooms where they could neither stand nor sleep. Family members were permanently separated once they reached this location, with men, women, and children held in different cells and sent to unknown destinations as slaves.
Young girls were forced to walk naked around the courtyard, vulnerable to the traders and enslavers who could assault them at will. In 1962, the house was converted into a museum, now serving as a testament to the immense human suffering and devastation caused by the slave trade. The Maison des Esclaves is a central part of the Gorée Island UNESCO World Heritage site.
After I learnt the history of this island and slave house, and had witnessed the small narrowed living places with tiny window, suffocating prisoner cells, those shackle and gun on display, I felt very bad for those who endured such inhuman treatment. There, I could almost hear their cry and feel their desperation and helpless. I also couldn’t image how could those slavery traders treat another race in this way and how they could enjoy wine, gourmet, and playing on the second floor, while slaves-to-be at the bottom floor wept for their misery. From what I learned from history book, those slavery traders called their actions as God’s ideas and instructions. How abominable! After I walked out the house, I felt a bit guilty for what had happened here although my ancestors have nothing to do with this. This humanity’s shameful past should never be forgotten and forgiven.
奴隶之家, 最初是由一名奴隶贩子、一名非洲裔法国妇女(安娜·科拉斯·佩平饰)所建和拥有。待售奴隶们从四面八方送到在这所房子,等待穿越大西洋到达美洲。待售奴隶们通常是部落出售的战俘,以及被奴隶贩子绑架或引诱的部落人民。准奴隶装载在船的底层,其中许多人由于疾病和饥饿而死与途中。抵达后,这些准奴隶贩子被囚禁在黑暗、不通风的牢房中,并被铐在地板上数日。他们的背靠在墙上,动弹不得。如果他们不遵守规则,他们会被惩罚,关到更小的房间里,使其无法站立或睡觉。家人一被带到这个地方就永远分开了,男人、女人和孩子被关在不同的牢房里,作为奴隶被送到不同的地方,彼此不知道目的地。年轻女孩强迫在庭院里裸体行走,商人和奴隶主只要看对眼,就可以强奸任何女孩。这座房子于 1962 年被改建为博物馆,现在成为奴隶贸易给人类带来的苦难和破坏的见证,是戈雷岛联合国教科文组织世界遗产的中心部分。
当我了解了这座岛屿和奴隶屋的历史,亲眼目睹了狭小的仅有窄小窗户的奴隶间、令人窒息的牢房、展示着的镣铐和枪支后,我为那些忍受着如此不人道待遇的奴隶或准奴隶感到非常难过。在那里,我几乎可以听到他们的哭声,感受到他们的绝望和无助。我也无法想象那些奴隶贩子怎么会这样对待其他种族,他们怎么能在二楼尽情享受美酒佳肴寻欢作乐,而住在底层的奴隶贩子们却为他们的痛苦哭泣。我从历史书中了解到的,那些奴隶贩子称他们的行为是上帝的想法和指示。多么可恶。虽然我的祖先与这些丑事无关,但我走出大门后,仍然为这里曾经发生过的事感到有些愧疚。我们绝不能遗忘和原谅这个人类不耻的过去。
通往无处的门口:将死去的奴隶扔进海里的地方
奴隶船示意图和教皇约翰保罗二世为白人基督徒参与奴隶贸易道歉
The IFAN Historical Museum of Senegal is another unforgettable attraction. According to our guide, people from Jamaica visit each year to celebrate their heritage and search for their family roots. Unfortunately, when we arrived around 6:00 PM, the museum was closed. What a pity! I could only take some photos outside.
塞内加尔历史博物馆或 IFAN 历史博物馆是另一个令人难忘的景点。 据导游说, 每年一些来自牙买加 (如果我没记错的话)的人们都会来到这里庆祝他们的传统并寻根。 只是当我们到达那里时,时间已近晚六点,博物馆已关了。 真可惜,我只能在外面拍些照。
Day 4 On the way to a remote tribe and a leprosy village 第 4 天去偏远部落和麻风村
The remote tribe and village we planned to visit is located on the border of Guinea-Bissau and Senegal, within Kedougou City, over 700 kilometers from Dakar. The journey would take approximately ten and a half hours. Our itinerary was structured over three days: Day 1 would be dedicated to driving to Kedougou; Day 2 was reserved for the clinic; and Day 3 would involve the drive back to the base.
我们计划参观的偏远部落和村庄位于几内亚比绍和塞内加尔的边境,属于克杜古市,距离达喀尔700多公里,车程约10个半小时。 这是三天的行程计划:第一天,驱车前往克多古; 第 2 天,看病; 第三天,驱车返回基地。
We woke up at 5:30 AM, just before dawn. There was no fancy breakfast; everyone grabbed chocolate bars, snacks, bananas, and some water before hitting the road. Remarkably, no one complained.
We drove out of town for about 30 minutes as the sun rose quietly over the desert horizon, casting an orange-yellow glow. It was blurry yet warm, touching the heart in a way that felt entirely different from the scenes we see at sea or above the mountains. The photo was taken from the moving bus.
我们早上 5 点 30 分还没破晓时就起床了。没有豪华的早餐,大家吃些巧克力棒、小吃、香蕉和喝点水就上路, 没有人抱怨。
开车大约30分钟,出了城,看到太阳静静地升起在沙漠的地平线上,橙黄色的,模糊,但它的温暖直击人心。 这情形,与我们在海上或高山上看到的截然不同。 这张照片是从移动的公共汽车上拍摄的。
As we passed through a small town, the church leaders purchased several bags of rice, vegetable oil, and other supplies for the tribe and village we were about to visit. I stepped off the bus for a moment to take some pictures.
Our bus stopped at a small, old chapel that resembled a Christian church. The church leaders traveling with us donated some medicine and rice. The local pastor was very grateful and offered us freshly fried chicken and bananas. Since I don’t eat chicken, I went to the back of the church to chat with others.
At noon, we had lunch at a gas station where only burgers and sodas were available. Not everyone was thrilled with the options, but we had no choice.
In the back of the church, several ladies were working at an outdoor “kitchen,” which consisted of a frying pan set over rocks, heated by burning wood. On the side, I noticed a large sign featuring the Star of David—a symbol of Judaism—on the wall of a storage shed. This caught my attention, as I couldn’t determine whether the church was Christian, if it was a Jewish place of worship, or if the worshippers were Jewish. Out of respect for their beliefs and privacy, I chose not to ask.
I met a young man named Adama, who worked for the church and spoke a little English. Although our communication was somewhat limited, we enjoyed chatting and sharing our thoughts. He told me he wanted to continue his education to better support his family. Before I left, he invited me to visit his home, which was just a hundred feet away. I accepted and met his wife, who was cooking rice at their outdoor kitchen. She kindly offered me lunch, and I noticed she had a noticeable baby bump, indicating that she was pregnant. I congratulated them and left a cash gift as a blessing for their unborn child.
当我们经过一个小镇时,教会领袖买了好几袋大米、植物油等, 准备送给我们要去的部落和村庄。 当其他人在车上等时,我下去了一会,拍了些照片。
中午我们在一个加油站吃了午饭。店里只有汉堡和可乐。 尽管不是每个人都喜欢,但我们别无选择, 只能是它了。
我们的巴士沿途停在一座古老的小教堂, 看起来像基督教教堂,和我们一起旅行的教会领袖给了他们一些药物和大米。教会的牧师非常感谢,并为我们提供了鲜炸的鸡和香蕉。我不吃鸡肉,所以我去教堂后面会会其他人。
教堂后面有几位女士在户外“厨房”工作。它基本上是在岩石上架一个平底锅,用松散的木头来燃烧加热。在旁边储藏室的墙上,有一个大大的大卫之星或犹太人或犹太教的标记,吸引了我的眼球。我不知道这个教堂是基督教还是犹太教,或者只是信奉者是犹太人。我没有问他们这个问题,以尊重他们的宗教和隐私。
我遇到了一个为教会工作的也会说一点英语的年轻人。他让我叫他阿达玛。虽然我们的交流沟通不是很有效,但这并没有影响我们聊天和分享我们的想法。他告诉我他想去学校接受更好的教育,以便养家糊口。最后,他邀请我去在近一百英尺外的他家看看。我和他一起去见了他在户外“厨房”煮饭的妻子。她非常友好地请我和他们共进午餐。她的肚子很大,显然是身怀六甲。我向他们表示祝贺,并给他们未出生的婴儿留下了一份现金礼物作为我的祝福。
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女士们在教堂后面做饭
墙上的犹太人或犹太教符号
After nearly 12 hours on the bus, we finally arrived in Kédougou at 6:30 PM. Kédougou is a town located in the Kédougou Region of southeastern Senegal, near the borders of Mali and Guinea. Founded in the early 20th century by the Malinké people, the name Kédougou translates to “Land of Man.”
Our hotel was situated on the edge of town, next to the Gambia River. While it might be rated three stars in the U.S., locally it is considered one of the few five-star hotels. The rooms are designed as dome-shaped, tent-like cabins and include all necessary facilities—clean but not always well-serviced. The hotel features a small, beautiful outdoor swimming pool, and the bar and restaurant are excellent. We didn’t expect to receive such high-quality treatment in such a rural area.
I shared a room with Dr. Wang, a pain management specialist known for his humor and warm-hearted nature. I felt fortunate to be his roommate for two nights.
坐了将近12个小时的大巴,我们终于在下午6点30分到达了凯杜古(Kédougou)。 凯杜古是塞内加尔东南部凯杜古地区的一个城镇,靠近马里和几内亚边境。 凯杜古由马林克人于 20 世纪初建立,意为“人的土地”。
我们的酒店位于凯杜古城边缘,毗邻甘比河。 它在美国可能被评为 3 星级,但在当地,它是少数 4-5 星级酒店之一。 所有房间都在圆顶形和帐篷状的小屋中。 房间有所有必要的设施,干净,但服务却是不敢恭维。中间有一个小但漂亮的室外游泳池,里面的酒吧/餐厅不错。 我们没想到在这样的农村地区可以有这样好的待遇。
酒吧/餐厅
我和王医生共享一个房间。 他是一位疼痛管理专家,一位幽默且暖心的绅士。 很幸运能和他成为两天的室友。
Day5 Visit to a remote tribe and a leprosy village 第 5 天 参观偏远部落和麻风村
Day 5 part 1: on the road 第 5 天第 1 部分:在路上
Our two destinations for the day were a remote tribe and a leprosy clinic/village. The tribe was two hours away from the hotel, so we set off at 6:30 AM, hoping to complete our mission there in the morning.
About an hour into our journey, the bus stopped at the entrance of a narrow, unpaved road. Looking around, I saw a landscape of brownish, barren land dotted with sparse bushes, leafless small trees, and dying grasses, along with scattered mango trees. It wasn’t a desert, but rather a typical representation of African terrain. The sun was relentless, scorching the earth, the air, and our bodies, with temperatures soaring to 106°F. As you can imagine, survival in this harsh environment would be impossible without shade and water. Clearly, the bus couldn’t venture any further on this rough terrain, so we had to switch to a truck.
A group of about 20 of us boarded the truck, bringing along food, water, and medicine. The journey was filled with surprises: jarring bumps, unexpected brushes with tree branches, and relentless heat. While the younger members of our group were thrilled by the adventure, many of us just wanted to reach our destination as quickly as possible. Unfortunately, things didn’t go as planned when the truck suddenly got stuck in a dry riverbed. We had to disembark and remove some heavy items to help the truck navigate its way out.
The truck took us closer to the tribe, and as I spotted the dry, dead bamboo, I knew we were nearing the village. I couldn’t help but wonder how the tribe managed to survive such extreme heat and drought, and what compelled them to live in this harsh environment. There had to be a story behind their resilience, but we would likely never uncover it.
我们今天的两个目的地是一个偏远的部落另加麻风病诊所/村庄。 部落离酒店有两个小时的路程,所以我们一大早6:30出发,希望我们能在早点完成我们的任务。
大约1个小时后,大巴停在了一条未铺砌的小路的入口处。 环顾四周,你会看到褐色贫瘠的土地,灌木丛生,没有叶子的小树,枯死或干枯的野草,还有散落的芒果树。 它不是沙漠,而是典型的非洲土地。 太阳正在灼烧一切,土壤、空气和我们的身体,温度达到了105 华氏度。可以想象, 没有避阴处和水,没有人可以在这里生存。 显然,大巴不可能在这种道路上开进去, 我们只好换乘卡车。
我们一行大约 20 人带着食物、水和药品登上这辆卡车。一 路上充满了惊喜:颠簸,意外被树枝撞到,被酷热灼伤。 虽然年轻人对这种冒险感到非常兴奋,但我们中的许多人都希望尽快过去。不幸的是,卡车并非如我们所愿,突然卡在了干涸的河床上。 我们不得不下车并取出一些重物,这样卡车才驶出河床。
卡车再次把我们载向部落。 当我看到枯死的竹子时,我知道我们我知道我们离村庄不远了。当时, 我不禁想,部落是如何在如此极端的高温和干旱条件下生存下来的,他们为什么要住在这里?这里面一定有故事,但我们可能永远不会知道。
Day 5 part 2: a remote tribe (Bassrai people) 第 5 天第 2 部分:偏远的部落(Bassrai 人)
After the truck rolled over a hill, the tribal village came into view. This village was discovered about 20 years ago by Ana Anderson, a pioneering female Christian missionary from Portugal and a member of an American church that helped organize this event. Ana’s heroic deeds can be read on the following website: Africa Cries Out. Prior to her arrival, the Senegalese government had no official record of the tribe or any communication with the village. While I am unsure if the village has an official name, I know that its residents are part of the Bassrai people, who primarily inhabit the borders of Ghana, Gambia, Guinea, and Guinea-Bissau.
As we approached the entrance—marked not by a real gate but by a few large decorative stones—two female villagers dressed in colorful costumes waved to welcome us. The truck parked in front of a small building functioning as both a clinic and a school, donated by Africa Cries Out. Due to our delays on the road, it was already 1:30 PM when we began the clinic. Most of our patients were women and children, as the men were out working in the fields during the day. Again, the majority of cases involved common ailments: children suffering from parasitic infestations and malnutrition, and women experiencing various pains. According to the chief, this was the first time they had seen doctors in three years.
After a brief clinic session, the tribal chief took us on a tour of his territory. The village was relatively small, probably only about 5 acres in size, and home to around 200 people. The houses were traditional, dome-shaped huts with straw roofs and walls made of earth or grass. The chief’s “palace” consisted of a small earthen hut suitable for a large bed, an outdoor kitchen, a small chicken coop, and a “meeting hall” covered with a straw roof. Notably, a Wi-Fi receiver stood in the center of the village, symbolizing the connection between ancient traditions and modern civilization.
Their water supply relied on three deep wells, as there were no rivers or other nearby sources. The water from these wells was neither filtered nor monitored, and residents had been drinking it despite its smell, slight turbidity, and potential contamination from heavy metals and microbes. We were advised against trying the well water, as it could lead to illness—a lesson learned the hard way by previous visitors. Due to isolation, poor irrigation conditions, and a growing population, the village faced shortages of food, clean water, salt, sugar, and other essentials. To help alleviate their scarcity, we brought rice, medicines, vegetables, cooking oil, and sugar.
卡车翻过一座小山,部落村庄即呈现在我们的眼前。这个村庄是在大约 20 年前由一位来自葡萄牙的女基督教传教士先驱安娜·安德森(Ana Anderson) 发现的。她是我们这次活动的组织者之一的教会的成员。安娜的英雄行为可以在下面联接的网站上阅读:https://africacriesout.net/sales-all-your-possessions-and-following-god-the-story-of-pastor-anderson-paim-and-ms-andressa-paim/。在此之前,塞内加尔政府没有这个的部落官方记录. 也没有和这个村庄有任何交流。我不知道这个村子有没有正式的名字,但我知道他们是主要居住在加纳、冈比亚、几内亚和几内亚比绍边境的巴萨莱人。当我们快到门口时(其实称不上大门, 只是几块装饰性的大石头而已),两名穿着五颜六色服装的女村民挥手欢迎我们。卡车停在一座由Africa Cries Out 捐赠的用作为诊所和/或学校的小房子前。由于路上延误,我们开始诊所的时候已经是下午1:30。因是白天, 男人在野外工作, 所以来的病人几乎都是妇女和儿童。同样,绝大多数是常见疾病:患有寄生虫感染和营养不良的儿童,以及患有各种疼痛的女性。据酋长/村长说,这是他们三年来第一次看到医生。
短暂的门诊后,酋长/村长带我们参观了他的领地。村子不大,大概只有5公顷左右,村民大概两百人。房子是传统的帐篷式或圆顶形小屋,屋顶是稻草,墙壁由泥土或草垒成。酋长的“宫殿”包括一个足以容纳一张大床的小土屋、一个户外厨房、一个小鸡房和一个被草顶覆盖的“会议厅”。村子中央有Wi-Fi接收器,标志着古老传统与现代文明的交流。因为附近没有河流或其他水源, 他们的供水主要靠村里的三口深井。井里的水既没有过滤也没有监测,居民们一直在喝这样有异味,有点混浊,可能有重金属和微生物污染的水。我们被告知千万不要尝试井水,否则会在接下来的行程中躺平(几年前发生过这样的事)。由于偏僻,灌溉条件差,加上人口不断增长,村里的食物、净水、盐和糖等物资一直短缺。我们带了不少大米、药品、蔬菜、食用油、糖等,以解燃眉之急。
酋长/村长50多岁,是个和善的绅士。他曾经也是当地的宗教领袖,掌管着居民生活的方方面面,包括食物分配、用巫医 (巫毒) 治病, 及生老病死。 改信基督教后,他接受了教会的教育和训练,现在能说会读一点英语。 这样, 他又成为了一名“赤脚医生”,为他的人民提供西药。 他说他只有一个妻子和十个孩子,过着幸福的生活。
The tour lasted only 20 minutes, and we were eventually led to a shaded area beneath a large tree, where many villagers had gathered to welcome and thank us. Children danced joyfully around us, singing traditional African songs and laughing heartily. The women wore brightly colored traditional clothing, while the elders greeted us warmly in their native language. Despite the sandy ground and slightly dusty air, everyone’s appearance was vibrant, clean, and neat. I was deeply moved by their optimism and good spirit in the face of such harsh conditions. Our young volunteers were clearly touched as well, joining in the dancing and singing during the celebration. At that moment, I felt that everything we had encountered on our journey and all we had done was worthwhile. While we may not have the power to change the world, we can at least do our best to help those in need, allowing everyone to experience a moment of joy.
我们只花了20 分钟参观完了整个村庄。最后,我们被带到一棵大树的浓荫下,那里有许多村民等着欢迎和感谢我们。 孩子们开心地跳着舞,唱着非洲歌曲,开怀大笑。 妇女们穿着色彩鲜艳的传统服饰,年长者对我们说着他们自己的语言, 很友好。 虽然地面是沙子,空气中有些尘土,但每个人的外表亮丽,干净,整洁。 我被他们在如此恶劣的条件下他们对生活的乐观和良好的精神所感动。 我们年轻的志愿者显然也被感动了,加入了他们庆祝的舞蹈和唱歌。 这一刻,我觉得旅途中所遭遇到的一切都是值得的。 我们没有能力改变世界,但至少可以尽力帮助有需要的人,让每个人可以享受一刻的欢乐。
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Day 5 part 3: Leprosy village 第 5 天第 3 部分:麻风村
We had to leave the tribal village at 3:00 PM to head to our next destination, the leprosy village located in Fatiga, Kédougou Province. This village is 250 km away from the nearest hospital and 700 km from Dakar. It is a neglected area when it comes to medical resources, largely due to its remote location and the stigma surrounding leprosy. Africa Cries Out has established a clinic here to assist patients and other local residents with their basic medical needs.
eprosy is a chronic infectious disease caused by the bacterium Mycobacterium leprae. It primarily affects the skin, mucous membranes, and nerves, spreading throughout the body. In severe or advanced cases, patients may develop deformities of the hands and feet, as well as facial disfigurement, which can lead to significant social stigma associated with the disease. In 2020, Senegal reported 191 cases of leprosy, the actual number is likely much higher; in this village alone, there are at least 30 individuals affected, and there are nine similar leprosy villages in the area.
The clinic campus we visited features a spacious courtyard, a clinic building, a supply room, and a residence for the manager, Pastor Ana Anderson, whom I previously referred to as a heroic missionary. Having given up her comfortable life in Portugal, Ana has dedicated most of her life to serving the less fortunate in this remote village.
Our medical services were conducted in the clinic building, focusing primarily on general health conditions rather than treating leprosy, as the leprosy patients were already under the care of local specialists. During the four-hour clinic, we attended to more than 300 patients with various ailments. We didn’t have a chance to take a break for water or food, and there were no air conditioners or fans in the room, where temperatures exceeded 100°F. Local volunteer translators and a young volunteer assistant from the USA, Rachel, worked diligently without a single complaint. As we stepped out of the clinic, many children greeted us, waving their hands and joyfully jumping and dancing.
In the courtyard, we had the opportunity to observe patients with leprosy up close. Honestly, I had never seen a leper in person before, and there is no comparison between witnessing a real patient and looking at a textbook picture. I saw many patients who had already lost fingers and toes, while some had facial changes that were noticeable but not yet disfiguring. The situation was much better than I had anticipated, indicating that there was a well-established system in place for treating and managing these patients. The patients welcomed and thanked us in their own ways. Although I am not a Christian, I found myself praying for these individuals. As we prepared to leave the clinic, the children blocked the door, reluctant to let us go (see video at the end).
因为要去麻风村, 我们只好在下午 3:00 离开部落。下一站的麻风村,位于凯杜古省法蒂加,距离最近的医院 250 公里,距离达喀尔 700 公里。此处地处偏远,又有麻风病, 所以在医疗资源方面是被忽视之地。Africa Cries Out 在这里设立了诊所,以帮助患者和其他当地居民的基本医疗需求。
麻风病是麻风分枝杆菌的慢性传染病。 它感染皮肤、粘膜和神经,并扩散到全身。 在严重或晚期疾病中,患者可能会出现手足残缺和面部畸形,成为此病的难堪外观改变。2020 年,塞内加尔报告的麻风病例数为 191 例(https://knoema.com /atlas/Senegal/topics/Health/Communicable-Diseases/Leprosy-cases)。但是,实际数字可能要高得多,因为仅在这个村庄,至少有 30 名麻风病人,但在这个地区还有 9 个类似的麻风村。
我们驻诊的诊所园区有一个宽敞的庭院、一个诊所大楼、供应室和一个管理员的住宅,也就是我只提到作为英雄传教士的安娜安德森牧师的房子。 安娜放弃了在葡萄牙的舒适生活,大部分时间都住在这里,在这个偏远的村庄为那些不幸的人服务。
我们的门诊设在诊所大楼。 我们只看一般的疾病或健康问题,没计划治疗麻风病,因为麻风病患者已由当地专科医生负责照看。在4小时的门诊时间里,我们照看了300多名各种情况的患者。 中间我们没有时间喝水或吃东西,在超过 100 华氏度的室温下也没有空调或风扇。 当地的志愿者翻译和来自美国的年轻志愿者Rachel 工作非常努力,没有一句抱怨。 当我们结束门诊走出诊所时,许多孩子挥舞着他们的手,兴高采烈地蹦蹦跳跳, 友好地向我们打招呼。
走到院子里,我们有机会近距离观察那些麻风病人。 说实在,在我的一生中我从未亲眼见过麻风病患者,看到真实的患者和看教科书图片真的没有可比性。我看到很多病人已经失去了他们的手指和脚趾,其中一些人有面部变化(但还没有毁容)。 这比我预期的要好得多,意味着这里有一个完善的系统来治疗和管理这些患者。 患者用自己的方式欢迎和感谢我们。 虽然我不是基督徒,但我也要为那些人祈祷。 当我们要走时,孩子们挡住了门,不想我们离开(见最后的视频)。
Day 6 On the way back to the base,Niokolo-Koba national park and Tambacounda 第 6 天 在返回基地的路上,在Niokolo-Koba国家公园Tambacounda停留
As planned, we returned to our base in Dakar today, leaving the hotel early for the more than 10-hour drive. Perhaps due to exhaustion from the previous day, many people fell asleep on the bus, creating a tranquil atmosphere until we stopped at Niokolo-Koba National Park.
“Monkeys and rhinos!” someone shouted as the bus engine turned off. Everyone jolted awake and rushed outside. Dozens of monkeys were jumping around, and several rhinos clumsily approached us. They seemed unafraid, curiously eyeing the food in our hands, quickly snatching it up as soon as we dropped it on the ground.
按计划,今天我们返回达喀尔基地。 因为开车时间要10 小时,所以我们很早离开酒店。 也许昨天太累了,很多人在大巴昏昏欲睡。直到大巴停在 Niokolo-Koba 国家公园之前, 车里相当安静。
猴子和犀牛! 车一熄火,有人喊了出来。 所有人都醒了,冲出了大巴。 周围有几十只猴子在蹦蹦跳跳,还有几头犀牛笨拙地朝我们走来。 他们似乎不怕我们,盯着我们手里的食物,把我们把食物丢在地上的时候迅速叼走。
Niokolo-Koba National Park lies along the way to Dakar, with Highway N7 running directly through it. Nestled in a well-watered area along the banks of the Gambia River, the park features lush gallery forests and savannahs, home to a rich variety of fauna. If we had the chance to stay longer, we might have spotted not only monkeys and chimpanzees but also larger animals like Derby elands (the largest antelopes), lions, leopards, and elephants, as well as smaller species such as birds, reptiles, and amphibians. The monkeys and rhinos we encountered were just a small part of the park’s diverse ecosystem. Unfortunately, we could only spend an hour there before needing to leave. As I was urged onto the bus by our leader, I suddenly noticed a series of surprising antics from a monkey. Without thinking much, I quickly took several photos (see pictures below).
Niokolo-Koba 国家公园在通往达喀尔的路上,N7 高速公路公路横穿而过。 它位于冈比亚河沿岸的一个水源充足的地区,其多样性的森林和大草原有非常丰富的动物群。 如果我们在公园足够的时间停留,我们不仅会看到猴子或黑猩猩,还会看到许多大型动物,如德比大羚羊(最大的羚羊)、狮子、豹子和大象,以及鸟类、爬行动物和两栖动物等小型动物。 那些猴子和犀牛只是这里生态系统的一小部分。 可惜我们只能在这个公园里呆了一个小时,就不得不离开了。当我被我们的领队催促着上车时,突然发现了一只猴子的神操作。没有多想,赶紧连拍(见下图)。
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This series of action shots featuring a monkey, our biological cousin, illustrates the unfortunate consequences of human intrusion into animals’ natural habitats and the environmental damage caused by human activities. These monkeys should thrive in tree-covered areas, feeding on fruits and drinking from natural water sources, rather than scavenging for garbage left behind by humans. Gradually, we are destroying the natural ecosystem, even in the remote regions of this undeveloped country. The park has been listed as a World Heritage Site in Danger since 2007 by the United Nations, serving as a wake-up call to the urgent need for protecting our planet.
After another two-hour drive, we made a brief stop in the city center of Tambacounda, the largest city in eastern Senegal, located 400 kilometers (250 miles) southeast of Dakar. As the regional capital of the province of the same name, we had only 15 minutes to spare and did not have the opportunity to explore. I captured a few random pictures in the city center and recorded a video from the moving bus (see the video at the end of the gallery).
这个我们的生物学表亲猴子的系列行动图片描绘了人类入侵动物自然居住地和人类活动造成环境破坏的可悲后果。 那些猴子应该生活在树木覆盖的土地上,以百果为食,饮天然之水,而不是吃人类留下的垃圾食品。 人类正在逐渐破坏自然生态系统,即使是在这个不发达国家的偏远地区也不能幸免。 该公园已于 2007 年被联合国列为濒危世界遗产,这是对保护我们星球的严肃性和紧迫性敲响的警钟。
又过了两个小时的车程,我们在坦巴昆达是塞内加尔东部最大的城市坦巴昆达的市中心做了短暂的停留。坦巴昆达位于达喀尔东南 400 公里(250 英里)处。 它是同名省的地区首府。我们只停了15分钟,没有机会四处走走。 我在市中心随便拍了几张照,在开动的大巴上拍摄了视频。
位于市中心的公园。 看起来很现代化。
位于市中心的公园。 不同的角度
Once we passed the city and entered the countryside, I immediately noticed a significant difference. This area exemplified typical African rural life, with houses that were old-fashioned and either tent-like or dome-shaped, reminiscent of the structures we saw in the tribes. Perhaps these villages were simply individual tribes. The land was brownish, marked by scattered trees and a lack of water. Most roads were unpaved and dusty.
One element that maintained a consistent appearance in both urban and rural settings was the mosque—always clean, tall, and solemn. This reflects the importance of religion in their lives and the sincerity of their beliefs. The following picture of a mosque in the countryside was taken from a moving bus, so please excuse the quality.
过了城市进入乡村,我可以立即注意到两者显着的差异。 农村是那些典型的非洲农村地区。 房子是老式的,像帐篷或圆顶,就像我们在部落看到的一样。 也许那些村庄也是个别部落群。 土地呈褐色,零星的树木三三俩俩,缺少水源。 道路基本未铺砌,尘土飞扬。 只有一件,无论城市还是乡村,其外观和风格大同小异,那就是清真寺, 它总是干净、高大、庄严。 这反映了宗教在他们生活中的重要性和他们对信仰的真挚。 以下农村清真寺的照片是从移动的大巴上拍摄的,所以质量还请原谅。
We took a short break at the roadside near a farm as we approached our base in Dakar. While not many people ventured out for fresh air, I seized the opportunity to explore the area for interesting scenes and scenery. In a nearby farm, I discovered a heartwarming moment between a donkey and her baby. What a beautiful expression of a mother’s love!
快到达喀尔时,我们在一个农场附近的路边短暂休息。 出来呼吸新鲜空气的人并不多,但我借此机会寻找有意思的场面或风景。 在附近的一个农场里,我发现了驴子和她的宝宝的温馨时刻。 舐犊情深,母爱伟大啊!
As the sun set before we boarded the bus, its warmth mirrored that of dawn, yet it evoked a more desolate feeling, reminiscent of the landscape on Mars.
上车前夕阳西下。 夕阳温暖如晨曦,但更多的却是火星般的荒凉。
Day 7 Clinic in a school and dinner in a beach restaurant 第 7 天 学校门诊和海滩餐厅晚餐
On this day, our clinic was held at a nearby elementary school, just a 30-minute drive from the base. The school was quite small, consisting of a single row of six one-story classrooms.
这一天我们的门诊设在附近的一所小学里。学校离基地只有30分钟的车程。这是一所很小的学校,只有一排有6个房间的单层建筑。
The lovely students, mostly under 10 years old, greeted us warmly at the entrance and in the courtyard. Their innocence and friendliness made them seem almost angelic. Each child wore clean, colorful outfits and appeared genuinely happy.
可爱的学生们,他们大多小于 10 岁,在入口处和操场里欢迎我们。 他们是如此的天真和友好,像个小天使。 每个人都穿着干净、色彩鲜艳的衣服,看得出他们都很开心。
The classrooms had been temporarily converted into clinics, and there were so many patients to attend to that we had to work efficiently. In just 4 to 5 hours, each of us saw nearly a hundred patients. Our young volunteers were invaluable; without their assistance, we wouldn’t have been able to serve so many people.
洗手间的墙上挂着一个滤水器和说明书。 当地卫生部门确实在努力改善公共卫生。
教室暂时改成了诊所。 需要看的病人太多了,所以我们必须非常高效地工作。 在 4 到 5 个小时内,我们每个人看了近 100 名患者。 我们年轻的志愿者确实是在帮了我们很多忙, 否则我们看不了这么多的病人。
We returned to the base earlier than usual, so we decided to treat ourselves to a nice dinner in Dakar to celebrate our hard work.
The restaurant was perched on a cliff overlooking the beach in the heart of Dakar. We arrived just in time for sunset, and the view was absolutely breathtaking. While the restaurant offered a variety of seafood and Western-style dishes, I was disappointed that there were no local foods available to try. I ordered seafood, but it didn’t quite hit the mark; the prawns, crabs, and clams seemed to be frozen rather than fresh. On the bright side, the local beer was fantastic and had a unique flavor. Overall, the dining experience was memorable—not because of the food, but because of the lovely conversations we shared about history and culture while enjoying the stunning night view of Dakar beach.
After dinner, as we made our way to the bus, I couldn’t resist the temptation to purchase a handcrafted wooden basket from a street vendor. It was not only artistic and delicate but also incredibly decorative. Check out my photos as a testament to its beauty!
我们回到基地的时间比平时要早一些。我们决定去达喀尔找一家好点的餐厅,来一顿丰盛的晚餐为我们的幸苦犒劳一下自己。
餐厅在达喀尔市中心的海滩悬崖之上。 我们到达的时候是日落时分,景色美得难以言述。餐厅提供很多海鲜和其他西餐,但没有我想尝试的当地美食,这让我有点失望。 我点了海鲜,可是味道不是很对口,因为用的虾、螃蟹和蛤蜊可能是冷冻的,而不是鲜活的。 不过,当地的啤酒很棒,而且味道非常独特。总的说来,这次用餐令人难忘,倒不是因为我们喜欢这里的食物,而是我们边欣赏达喀尔海滩美丽的夜景,边海阔天空地聊历史, 聊文化。
晚饭后,在去大巴的路上,我忍不住从街头小贩那里购买了手工制作的木篮。 它非常艺术,精致和极其装饰性。 我有照片为证。
未使用时扁平形状
拉起时的真实形状
Day 8 Covid-19 testing, clinic, donation, and dinner with Chinese family 第 8 天 教堂门诊、捐赠仪式和与中国家庭共进晚餐
Day 8 Morning: Covid-19 testing and clinic 第 8 天 上午:Covid-19 测试和诊所
I hadn’t given much thought to our return journey, but the reality was that our flight back was scheduled for two days later. To meet the flight requirements, we needed a COVID-19 PCR test 48 hours in advance. At 8:00 AM, the bus took us to the Pasteur Institute of Dakar. However, as soon as the testing center opened, we were informed that flights to the USA now required testing no earlier than 24 hours before departure. This meant our efforts this morning were in vain, and we would have to return tomorrow for another test.
到达喀尔巴斯德研究所进行 Covid-19 测试
从来没有想过我们什么时候要回去,但现实是我们回去的航班是两天后。 为了符合飞行要求,我们需要提前 48 小时进行 Covid-19 PCR 测试。这天上午 8:00钟,大巴的把我们带到了达喀尔巴斯德研究所测病毒。 但是,一开门,我们被告知飞往美国的航班现在需要在起飞前 24 小时之前进行测试,这意味着今天白来了,我们明天还要到这里再来一趟。
After our unsuccessful attempt at testing, we headed straight to another church for a clinic. At the entrance, the pastor and many locals welcomed us warmly. The church appeared new, but it had no furniture like tables or benches inside. We divided the space into six separate areas for our clinics and pharmacy using plastic sheeting. The clinic lasted about four hours until we ran out of medicine.
4o mini
检测未成,我们直接开车去另一教堂门诊。牧师和当地民众在门口欢迎我们。 教堂看起来很新,但里面没有家具如桌椅板凳。我们只好用塑料布将房间分成 6 个独立区域,供我们的门诊和药房使用。门诊持续了大约 4 个小时,直到我们药用完了才结束。
Day 8 Covid-19 testing, clinic, donation, and dinner with Chinese family 第 8 天 教堂门诊、捐赠仪式和与中国家庭共进晚餐
After finishing the clinic and returning to the base, we held a brief donation ceremony for the items brought from the USA. The donated items included shoes, cell phones, and laptops. Most of the shoes were collected by the “Shoes for Africa Kids” club in the USA, of which my younger son, Kenny, was the president. He brought hundreds of pairs of shoes all the way from the USA, and another girl, Rachael, also contributed many new pairs. It was heartwarming to see so many Senegalese kids receiving sneakers, allowing them to play soccer or basketball without the fear of injury.
结束门诊回到基地,我们为从美国带来的捐赠物质举行了简短的捐赠仪式。 捐赠的物品包括鞋子、手机和笔记本电脑。 这些鞋子大部分是由美国“非洲儿童鞋捐赠”俱乐部收集的。 我的小儿子肯尼是这个俱乐部的主席。 他从美国一路带来了数百双鞋到这里。 另一位女孩瑞秋也带来了许多新鞋。 很高兴看到很多塞内加尔孩子现在可以穿上运动鞋去踢球或打篮球,不怕受伤了。
孩子们不穿鞋踢球,容易受伤
After the donation ceremony, our group took a tour of the base, which spans about ten acres and was originally purchased by a church. The primary purpose of the land is to establish schools and medical facilities. Twenty years later, the base has developed into a community hub, featuring a technical school, dormitories for students and staff, multifunctional buildings (including a kitchen, meeting room, and guest rooms), a small clinic, and a vegetable garden.
捐赠仪式结束后,一行人参观了基地。 基地大概有十亩,原本是教会买的。这块地的主要用途是建造学校和医疗设施。 20年后,现已建成技术学校、学生和教职工宿舍、通用建筑(厨房、会议场所和客房)、一个小诊所和菜园。
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独立的额外厨房
学生宿舍(中间)和学校(右侧)
在读的学生和教师
多功能建筑、厨房和技术学校。 在技工学校,学生们正在学习机械工作、建筑、缝纫、烹饪等基本技能,以便在掌握一两种技术后找到工作。
The clinic is conveniently located near the entrance to accommodate patients. Though small, it is well-equipped with essential facilities, including an outpatient desk, examination room, delivery room, neonatal incubator, and short-term inpatient room. The clinic serves between 10 to 30 patients each day and offers services at little to no cost to local residents, with expenses covered by the church and Africa Cries Out (ACO).
Founded by the late Dr. Idrissa Faye, the clinic is a testament to his commitment to serving impoverished communities. Dr. Faye chose to forego a lucrative career in an urban setting to dedicate his life to helping those in need. Tragically, he passed away at the age of 58 while en route to the leprosy village, succumbing to complications from heart disease and diabetes. In honor of his dedication and sacrifice for his beloved cause, the interior of his office has been preserved as it was, even though it is now used by the current in-house doctor. You can read the remarkable story of Dr. Faye here.
为了方便患者,诊所设在入口旁边。 麻雀虽小,五脏俱全,它有所有必要的设施,包括门诊台、体检室、产房、新生儿保育箱和短期住院室。 它每天为 10-30 名患者提供服务,对当地人几乎免费(费用由教会和 Africa Cries out 承担)。
这个诊所由已故Idrissa Faye医生创建。Faye 医生放弃了在市区工作致富的机会,为服务这里的穷人牺牲了自己的一生。由于心脏病/糖尿病并发症,他不幸死于去麻风村出诊的路上,享年 58 岁。 为了纪念他对他心爱的事业的奉献,尽管他的办公室现由驻诊医生使用,但办公室内部一直保持原样。 您可以在下面的网站里阅读有关 Faye 博士的令人难以忘怀的故事。https://africacriesout.net/the-sunset-in-senegal/
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办公室门口Faye 医生的纪念牌匾
The vegetable garden was initially established to grow food but has since evolved into an outdoor classroom for students to learn about cultivating greens and maintaining a garden. It’s truly remarkable to see how lush and green the vegetables can thrive in such a drought-prone area.
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菜园最初是用来种植蔬菜的,后来变成了学生们学习如何种植绿色蔬菜和维护菜园的另一个教室。 在如此干旱的地区,蔬菜能长得如此绿意盎然,真是太神奇了。
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Around 6:00 PM, we visited a Chinese family who invited us as guests in Dakar.
Their home was conveniently located just a five-minute drive from our base, with both their residence and factory situated on the same enclosed property. The host and hostess were a lovely couple, originally from Wenzhou, Zhejiang province. They have successfully operated a family business supplying construction painting materials in Dakar for several years. The host, a fantastic cook, prepared a delicious spread of Chinese dishes that was more than enough to feed our party of over a dozen people. Everyone agreed this was the best food we had enjoyed since arriving in Senegal.
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The couple are devout Christians. During dinner, they shared their life story and entrepreneurial experiences, which I admired deeply. Despite having limited education, they achieved satisfactory careers in Wenzhou after graduating from middle school but were not content with their lifestyles. With their family’s support of 10,000 Chinese yuan and their strong Christian faith, they embarked on a life-changing adventure to Congo (Kinshasa).
After nearly ten years of hard work, they found business opportunities in Senegal, where they established their own successful enterprise while raising two lovely sons. Their business now accounts for a third of the construction painting supply in Senegal. Their story is truly inspiring—a young couple driven by their desire for a better life and a sincere faith that motivates them to become better individuals. I sincerely hope they will accept a blessing from me, a non-Christian.
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下午6:00左右,我们受邀去了一个在达喀尔生活和工作的中国家庭聚餐。
这家人住得不远,只有5分钟车程。 他们的房子和工厂在同一个围墙内。 主人和女主人是非常和善的一对。 他们最初来自浙江省温州,在达喀尔经营建筑涂料供应的家族企业已有数年,并且相当成功。 主人是个厨艺高手,准备了足够给十几个人聚会的美味中餐。 大家都认为这是我们到了塞内加尔以来吃过的最好的食物。
这对夫妇是虔诚的基督徒。 晚宴上,他们向我们讲述了他们的人生故事和创业经历。 我发自内心的钦佩他们。 他们没有受过太多教育。 中学毕业后,他们在温州事业不顺,生活方式也不尽如人意。 靠了家人的10000人民币元支持和他们的基督教信仰,这对夫妇前往刚果(金沙萨)打拼,希望一搏以改变人生。 经过近十年的努力,他们在塞内加尔找到了商机,有了自己的事业, 同时又生养了两个可爱的儿子。 现在,他们的业务控制着塞内加尔三分之一的建筑涂料供应。 对美好的生活渴望和来自于强烈而真诚的宗教信仰成为一个更好的人,造就了一对年轻夫妇的励志故事。我真诚地希望他们能接受我这个不是基督徒的祝福。
Day 9 Last clinic in a small village, Dinner in Chinese restaurant, and flight back to NYC 第 9 天 在小村庄的最后一次门诊,中餐厅享用晚餐,然后乘飞机返回纽约
On our last day in Senegal, our schedule remained tight. Our first task was to return to Dakar for a COVID-19 PCR test. We arrived early at the same location as yesterday, and this time the process went smoothly. We received our results within four hours, and everyone hoped for negative results; the thought of leaving someone behind was unimaginable.
After the testing, we stopped for breakfast at a downtown bakery called La Gondole. I treated myself to my favorite croissant and grabbed a couple of roast beef sandwiches for lunch.
达喀尔市中心的 La Gondole 面包店
这是在塞内加尔的最后一天,但我们的日程仍然很紧。 要做的第一件事是去达喀尔做完 Covid-19 PCR 测试。 我们很早就去了昨天的去的地方。 这次很顺利,4小时后就可以出结果了。大家都希望没有人会阳性,否则留下一个人在这里是不可想象的。
做完测试,我们在市中心的法式面包店停下来吃早餐。 我的早餐是我最喜欢的羊角面包,顺手买了几个烤牛肉三明治当午餐。
While waiting on the bus for the others to finish breakfast, I took some pictures of people crossing the intersection in front of me with my iPhone. The resolution of the iPhone photos, however, is a far cry from that of the Nikon D800 with the AFS 24-70mm F2.8 E ED lens that I used most during this trip.
当我在公共汽车上等别人吃早餐时,我用iPhone拍了一些从我面前过十字路口的人们的照片。显然,iPhone图片的分辨率与我这次旅行中用得最多的尼康D850+AFS 24-70mm F2.8E ED的照片分辨率相差甚远。
The photos below were taken at various locations and times. Since they feature people, I thought it would be fitting to share them here.
以下图片是在不同地点、不同时间拍摄的,由于我是在展示人物的照片,所以我不妨在这里顺便展示一下。
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Energized, we quickly returned to the base to change our clothes. Our clinic for the day was located in a small village about an hour away. It was an extremely hot day, yet oddly, we didn’t feel particularly sweaty. I suspect the hot, dry air absorbed the moisture from our skin, making us feel less damp. Upon arriving in the village, we were greeted by men, women, and children waiting for us in a tent and under a large tree. This tree, estimated to be around thirty feet tall, stood prominently in the center of the village. I later learned from an 83-year-old patient that the tree was already this tall when he was born, suggesting it’s at least 100 years old. According to him, the tree is a symbol of the village.
The clinic was bustling with activity. The patients’ conditions were quite similar to those we had encountered elsewhere, with a significant number suffering from hypertension. I was saddened and shocked to learn that many hypertensive patients had never received treatment, and some had stopped taking their medication due to financial hardships. One patient had a blood pressure reading of 200/101 mmHg—an almost emergency-level condition in the U.S.—yet he walked around as if he felt perfectly fine. Even more concerning was the prevalence of borderline high blood pressure among the patients.
I believe this high incidence of hypertension may be linked to their diet, which is high in salt and low in fiber. Among the children, both boys and girls presenting with abdominal pain predominantly had parasitic infestations, often accompanied by anemia and malnutrition. Since it was our last day, we made a concerted effort to distribute as much medication as possible, particularly vitamins and nutritional supplements.
We all felt a sense of relief after finishing our clinic at 6:00 PM. We congratulated each other on our accomplishments and expressed our gratitude to everyone who had supported us. To show our appreciation for the volunteers and church staff for their excellent work, we invited them to dinner at one of the best Chinese restaurants in Dakar, the Gold Coast.
黄金海岸,我们共进晚餐的中餐厅
At the Gold Coast, we had a wonderful time. The food was quite authentic, with a slightly different flavor profile than what we typically experience in NYC, thanks to the owner and chef hailing from China. Our local volunteers enjoyed dishes tailored to their tastes.
Our flight to New York City was scheduled for 2:00 PM, so we hurried back to the base after dinner. By noon, we packed up and boarded the bus. No one seemed overly excited; many of us, myself included, felt a sense of reluctance to part ways. However, every journey must come to an end, and we had many other commitments awaiting us back home.
Goodbye, Senegal. We may be leaving, but this experience will forever hold a meaningful place in our lives, and its memories will endure through time.
吃饱喝足,我们迅速开车回到基地,换好衣服。 这一天的门诊是在一个小村子里,离基地大约一个小时的路程。 天非常炎热,但奇怪的是我们没有出汗。 我想是又热又干的空气会立即吸走汗水,让我们感觉不到出汗。到了村庄,男女老少在帐篷和一棵大树下等着我们。那棵大树估计有三十尺高,突兀地矗立在村子中央。 后来我从我83岁的病人那里得知,这棵树在他出生时就那样高了。 我猜这棵树至少有 100 年的年龄了。据那位先生说,这棵树是这个村庄的象征。
门诊很忙。 患者的情况与其他地方的非常相似, 有很多高血压患者。得知许多高血压患者从未接受过治疗,有些人因经济困难停止服药,我感到难过和震惊。 一名患者的血压为 200/101 mmHg(毫米汞柱),在美国几乎是紧急情况,但他仍然走来走去,仿佛没有任何感觉。 临界高血压就更多了。 我认为如此高的高血压患病率可能与他们的饮食有关:盐含量高且纤维不足。而在儿童,无论男女,当他们出现腹痛时,极大部分都患有寄生虫感染,并伴随导致的贫血/营养不良。 因为是最后一天,我们尽可能多多地分发药物,特别是维生素和其他营养补充剂。
下午 6:00,结束门诊后,我们都如释重负。我们互相祝贺任务完成,并感谢其他人对我们的帮助。 为了感谢我们的志愿者和教会支持人员的出色工作,我们邀请他们到达喀尔最好的中餐厅,黄金海岸,共进晚餐。
在黄金海岸,我们过了个非常开心的晚上。食物很正宗,与在纽约的味道差别不大。这是因为这家餐馆老板和厨师来自中国。 我们当地的志愿者也享受了适合自己口味的食物。
当地志愿者和我们一起享受中国美食。
我们飞往纽约市的航班是午夜 2:00 PM,所以我们吃完晚饭后赶紧回基地。晚上 12:00,收拾好行李上车,似乎没有人太兴奋。 很多人,比如我自己,有一种恋恋不舍的感觉。 然而,旅程毕竟是有结束的时候,我们在世界的那一头还有许多其他事在等着我们去做。
再见,塞内加尔。 我们离开了,但这一刻永远是我们生活中的有意义一部分,它的记忆不会随着时间的流逝而消失。